PLANTING THE SEED
The way you plant your grass seed
depends on what shape your current lawn is in. You need to evaluate
your situation and go from there!
Seeding an Existing
Lawn
Let�s say that you already have a lawn, but there
are places that need to be filled in and thickened up. Your best bet
with this type of lawn is to aerate it and over-seed.
An aerator is a machine that will poke a hole in the ground (thousands
of them actually) and remove a core of soil and leave it laying on the
surface. These are called core aerators. Some aerators will simply
push a spike into the ground creating a hole, this type is not as
good. Check with an equipment rental store to find an aerator that
will work for you.
To start with, mow your grass as low
as you can safely, don't throw rocks and dig dirt with the mower,
but get it down to
about 1" high. This will stunt the grass and slow its growth allowing
the new grass that you will seed to get started with limited
competition from the existing grass.
After mowing take
an aerator, and go over the entire lawn at least twice. Depending on
the model you use, the aerator will poke holes every 2 to 8 inches
apart. If you can look down at the lawn at any point and not see spots
that don't have holes larger than 6", you are doing fine. If you have
a spot larger than 6" without holes in it, you won't have very much
grass come up in that spot, so go over the lawn as many times as it
takes to be sure you have holes everywhere.
Once you�re
done aerating, you will start spreading your seed, but you need to
accurately measure your lawn first. Everything you do in lawn care
depends on the measurement of your lawn, so do
it correctly the
first time and write it down so you can refer back to it whenever you
need to.
The amount of seed you use is important. If
you don't use enough you won't get the desired results. Most
professionals will use 350 pounds per acre for lawns. Divided out per
thousand square feet that is 8 pounds per thousand square feet.
Rent, buy, or borrow a seed spreader. This will make your
job much easier! Do not use your hand and just throw it around, you
won't get even coverage.
Spread the seed using half of
the required amount spreading it in one direction, use the other half
spreading the opposite direction creating a cross hatch pattern on the
lawn. This way you are assured of getting even coverage.
After spreading the seed take a drag of any type, a piece of chain
link fence, a board with a rope tied to it, or what ever you can drag
behind your mower. Drag the lawn, this will push and drag seed into
the holes you created and break up the little plugs of soil that the
aerator left on the ground, it will cover up most of the seed giving
much better germination and a thicker lawn.
Once you
complete the dragging, spread a starter fertilizer. You can actually
do this first if you want to, it really doesn't matter. A starter
fertilizer has a higher middle number than first and last numbers
which means more phosphate.
You will need to put down 8
pounds per thousand square feet of a 6-12-12
or 4 pounds per K of a 6-24-24. This will give the ground the
nutrients needed to germinate and start a turf lawn, thus the name
"starter fertilizer".
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After about a month the new grass
will start to yellow off some or maybe turn pale green, this is
showing you that it is time to fertilize again. Apply 6# per K of
15-15-15 this will provide the nitrogen for green and growth and
phosphate and potash for root growth and overall vigor.
After the grass is about 3 weeks old you should be able to start
mowing. Be sure to cut it high. Fertilizing will also need to be done
on a regular schedule. We�ll cover these issues in later chapters.
Seeding a New Lawn
If you have a new home and this
is the first lawn a few things are different. Mainly you will have to
do clean up and get the proper grade before working on seeding.
Once this is done you will have to till up the ground to make a
soft seed bed. After tilling fertilize, and seed just as described
above using the same
amount of seed. Then, cover the entire lawn with straw.
Shake
out straw to cover approximately 50% of the soil from view. After done
you should be able to look down and still see about half of the soil
showing through the straw, no more. This equates to about 100 bales
per acre.
After you�re done laying down the straw it's time to
start watering. Soak the lawn until runoff the first watering,
followed by daily watering of sufficient length to keep the soil wet.
If it dries out, the seed won't germinate.
Another option for
your new lawn is to buy patches of sod. Sod can be a quick answer to
aesthetic beauty, but be prepared to pay a pretty penny for this
choice.
There are two integral elements of growing and
maintaining a lush, green lawn. Those elements are watering and
fertilizing.
WATERING YOUR LAWN
This is
a very important part of lawn care. You won�t have that beautiful
carpet you desire in your yard if you don�t give it proper watering on
a regular basis. This schedule, of course, depends on the climate in
which you live.
Do some research on how much rainfall
your area has gotten in the past and how much is expected. The type of
weather in your area will determine what type of watering system will
be best for you. If you live in a dry climate, you may need an
irrigation system or automatic sprinkler system.
In
fact, underground automatic sprinklers are the recommended way to
water lawns. When you have such a system, watering is done when it
needs it on a regular basis. You won�t have to mess with hoses or
wasting water since all watering is done with a time. However, these
types of systems are quite costly and just may not be an option for
you.
Most people will use
commercial
sprinklers that can be purchased quite cheaply at any discount or home
store. When you use regular sprinklers, be sure to move them to
different places in your yard so that the entire lawn is watered
evenly. If you don�t do this, you will have some spots without water
and your lawn will look uneven.
Take care that you don�t over
water. Over watering your lawn causes more damage than a lack of
water. That's because most turf grasses can handle dry spells, but not
flooding.
Most grasses require 1 - 1.5" of water per week. This
is enough water to moisten the soil to 4 - 6" below the surface for
clay soils and 8 - 10" for sandy soils. Of course, natural rain will
provide some of your watering needs.
Don't guess at how much
water your lawn is getting. For measuring Mother Nature's
contribution, invest in a rain gauge. If at the end of the week she's
contributed enough, hold off adding more. If she comes up short,
you'll want to add some supplemental watering. Again, measure how much
water your sprinkler is putting down.
You'll have to follow
local regulations when there are watering bans, but just remember that
less water is acceptable and grass is a very resilient plant. When the
rains do return your lawn will come back with a little encouragement
on your part.
As a note, you can make a type of irrigation
system on your own for lawn watering by taking a simple garden hose
and poking holes in it at consistent intervals. Remember, though, that
you�ll need to move the hose periodically to insure consistent
watering.
FERTILIZERS
Your lawn consists
of thousands and thousands of tiny little plants that group together
closely to form patches of grass. Plants need
fertilizer to grow
healthy. We know we need to fertilize our garden and house plants, but
often, the lawn is overlooked. A green lawn needs food to grow and
thrive.
Fertilizer is any material supplying one or
more essential plant nutrients. Most common turf grass fertilizers
include nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, but they may also include
other essential mineral elements for turf grass growth.
Fertilizers do more than make your lawn green. They help the grass
grow too, but there�s a little more involved. Fertilizer will help
grass seed germinate quicker and get started out of the ground. After
the plants have established, fertilizer will make the grass thicker
and healthier.
The most common questions asked by
homeowners regarding fertilizers is how much and when. Generally
speaking, most lawns will need four applications of fertilizer per
year.
Spread fertilizing out 60 days apart starting in early
spring approximately 30 days before the growing season starts in your
area. Continue fertilization through the growing season until fall.
Spring fertilizing gets the grass off to a fast start giving you that
rich green color everyone wants.
As in watering, you should
avoid using too much fertilizer. General guidelines should be included
on the bag. Too much fertilizer will
cause excess
growth, lead to fungus growth and weaken the grass.
What type
of fertilizer should you use? Well, the answer depends on your and
your needs. However, there are two basic types: complete and balanced.
Complete fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium,
but they may also include other essential minerals elements for turf
grass growth.
Complete fertilizers contain nitrogen,
phosphorous, and potassium in the same product. If a fertilizer
contains less than all three elements it is referred to as an
incomplete fertilizer. If urea, a 46-0-0 incomplete fertilizer, is
used for every application through the season, lower turf quality may
result if other essential elements are not being supplied by the soil.
Balanced fertilizers provide nutrients in a predetermined ratio
that best meets the plant's requirements for those elements. Turf
grasses require nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium in the
approximate ratio of 3-1-2, 4-1-2, or 8-1-3.
Remember that the
right balanced fertilizer ratio will differ with grass type, and is
also influenced by soil levels of certain elements
You may want
to get a slow-release fertilizer that lets their nutrients out slowly
over a period of time. These fertilizers are commercially produced and
available at most home stores.
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Because these lawn fertilizers
release their nutrients over time, rather than all at once, you're
essentially stretching out the feeding. As nutrients are released, the
root system of your grass fills in any bare patches. This in itself
promotes lawn weed control, depriving weed seeds of a place to
germinate.
Before buying these or any other lawn fertilizers,
read the instructions on the bag carefully (or ask someone at the
store for details). A particular product may not be suitable for your
type of grass. Likewise, when applying lawn fertilizers, follow
directions explicitly, concerning how much to apply, how often they
should be applied, and under what conditions they should be applied.
Lawn fertilizers are best applied with spreaders. Be advised not
to fill the applicator with the spreader parked on the lawn. Doing so
invites grass-burn, as you may accidentally discharge too much while
loading. Instead,
fill the applicator somewhere else, then wheel the spreader onto the
lawn.
Many people are going green with their growing using
chemical free fertilizers and weed control. However, they don�t
necessarily provide you with an advantage when fertilizing your lawn
and garden.
Plants absorb nutrients in the same way, whether
the source be organic or a conventional fertilizer. Turf grass roots
will only absorb dissolved nutrients found in the soil water. Organic
fertilizers do not offer any advantages to the care of your lawn. The
choice is strictly personal preference.
In addition, there are
lawn fertilizers that promote lawn weed control at the same time.
Effective lawn weed control should, after all, go hand-in-hand with
the application of lawn fertilizers: if the weeds suck up some of the
nutrients that you're supplying, those are nutrients being wasted, as
they are not going to your grass.
Fortunately, applying lawn
fertilizers and practicing weed control can be integrated into the
same chore � if you play your cards right!
WEED CONTROL
Unfortunately, there�s a lot more growing in your lawn than just
grass. Controlling weeds in a new or existing lawn
is vital to the
health and overall appearance of the lawn.
A beautiful smooth
lawn gets most of its good looks from the fact that it is smooth and
level with no weeds sticking up above the turf. You have probably
mowed your lawn before only to have dandelions popping up above the
grass a day later making it look like you need to mow already.
A weed free lawn holds its good looks for several days if the grass is
a monoculture with uniform growing heights.
Weed controlsWeeds
are really just one type of plant that we have decided shouldn't be
growing in one particular place. It's your point of view as to what
makes a weed a weed.
Some weed-type plants are invasive and
fast growing. Their growth habit overtakes our cultivated turf plants,
depriving them of food and water. Other weeds are extremely noxious
and cause problems for humans if they get close them.
In the
lawn, the most common weeds are just a nuisance. Most don't cause skin
reactions or breathing difficulties, they just don't look good.
What they're also telling us is that the lawn isn't as healthy as
it should be. Turf grasses today are so adept at growing into thick
masses, that if maintained properly, weeds are not a problem. It is
when the lawn isn't as healthy as it could be that we see weeds
becoming a problem for the lawn.
There are three basic types of
lawn weeds:
1. Grass Type Weeds
2. Grass-Like Weeds
3. Broad Leaf Weeds
Each of these requires a different
method in order to control. Experts agree that the best way to control
weeds to to prevent them from showing up in the first place. There are
certain weed control products on the market right now that can
accomplish this.
They are called
pre-emergent
controls and should ideally be applied in the spring. The soil's
surface is covered with a microscopic protective layer that prevents
any germinating seeds from taking hold, including crabgrass.
If
left undisturbed, this protective layer will maintain its defensive
qualities throughout the prime germinating period. This is when most
weed seeds will normally start developing. Of course, there is no 100%
guarantee that additional seeds won't be carried in by winds, birds,
or any number of other methods.
Thoroughly read, understand,
and follow all information on herbicide labels. Avoid windy days, as
these materials can damage many landscape and garden plants if they
drift (spray droplets land off the lawn). Also avoid hot days (over 85
degrees F).
It's best to have adequate soil moisture, but no
rain for 24 hours after application. Don't mow for a few days before
and after application. Consider spot treating weeds rather than
broadcasting weed killer over the entire area.
Use caution on
newly seeded areas; wait four mowings before treating newly seeded
lawns and 30 days before seeding areas treated with broadleaf
herbicides. Read the label regarding potential tree damage when used
on lawns growing over tree root zones.
To treat for weeds in
your lawn, you have to understand the type of weed that you have.
Since different type weeds require different types of treatment. We�ll
go through some of the more common types of weeds and give you some
advice how to control them.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass is the most common type of weed in lawns and it�s nearly
impossible to completely control
this weed.
Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass which grows best in the heat
of midsummer when desirable lawn grasses are often semi-dormant and
offer little or no competition. Crabgrass over winters as seed, comes
up about mid-May or later, and is killed by the first hard frost in
fall.
Crabgrass grows best in full sun. It does not grow in
shady places. It will come up in clumps and look markedly different
from the rest of the grass. As it grows older, it�s �arms� will flop
over and radiate out from the center covering the ground.
Crabgrass can be controlled in a number of ways, but the best defense
against crabgrass is a thick vigorously growing lawn that is mowed no
closer than 2-1/2" for cool season grasses. Use a bagger to collect
grass clippings while the weed�s seed heads are present.
However, you don�t want to have unsightly crab grass in your lawn, so
to gain control, do not apply fertilizer in summer and get a
post-emergent herbicide. This type of herbicide is applied after the
crabgrass has already sprouted.
Bentgrass
Bentgrass is a cool season perennial spreading grass that is commonly
used for golf course greens, tees, and fairways. For the lawn owner,
bentgrass is often considered a weed.
Bentgrass is not a viable
option for a home lawn because it is very expensive and difficult to
cultivate and care
for. It is characterized as a very fine-textured, bright green grass
with flat, narrow leaves.
Unfortunately, there is no herbicide
you can use to get rid of bentgrass that won�t damage the lawn you are
meaning to grow. Patches of bentgrass will appear as fluffy,
fine-textured clumps that you can remove with a spade or by just
pulling. When removing bentgrass, do so about 1� into the ground and
re-seed.
You can try a herbicide with glyphosate to remove
bentgrass, but be aware that it will kill the wanted grass along with
the unwanted grass. apply the herbicide to an area about six inches or
so outside the patch of Bentgrass to kill the individual stems which
are creeping outwards from the patch, otherwise, these patches will
reemerge.
Apply glyphosate in spring or fall when the grasses
are actively growing. Wait approximately seven days, then reseed or
sod the area. If you decide to till the soil prior to establishment,
and see bits of Quackgrass rhizomes coming to the surface, remove
these. Or wait two weeks or so until enough new Quackgrass leaves
emerge and kill the new plants with a second application of glyphosate.
Dandelions
dandelions.jpg
Most people are
familiar with dandelions. They are a broad leaf weed that begins with
bright yellow flowers that eventually change into a globe of fine
filaments which are seeds that are distributed by the wind. Who hasn�t
blown a dandelion into the air?
Even though dandelions are
considered a weed, they actually do have some uses in both food and
medicine. They are close in character to mustard greens and are
sometimes used in soups or salads.
Dandelion root is a
registered drug in Canada and is used as a diuretic. It can also be
used to treat anemia, jaundice, or to sooth nervousness. And, of
course, who hasn�t heard of dandelion wine?
If not effectively
controlled, dandelions can quickly take over your yard and kill off
patches of grass as they rob the soil of water and nutrients meant for
the lawn. Simply picking or mowing over the flowers won�t get rid of
them.
Dandelions are best treated during active growing cycle
with a spot treatment. If you use a dry granular form of weed
killer or a weed
and feed type of fertilizer, apply it to wet grass and weeds. The weed
control material must stick to the leaves of the weed plants to be
effective. If you spray a liquid, apply it only on a calm day so
material will not drift onto desirable plants.
Remember,
broadleaf weed killers are broadleaf plant killers. They do not, for
example, differentiate between dandelions and tomato plants. Apply
them only to weeds in the lawn. Be careful not to get the material
onto desirable plants
in your yard.
Read and follow all label directions.
Ground Ivy
This weed is a perennial with creeping stems that root at
the nodes and has foliage that emits a mint-like odor when mowed.
Ground ivy is primarily a weed of turf grass and landscapes
Ground ivy is hard to control because you can't pull it out easily in
lawns and many commercial broadleaf lawn weed killers have little or
no effect on it. The most common active ingredient in granular and
liquid broadleaf lawn weed killers is 2,4-D, but 2,4-D has little
effect on ground ivy.
Another common active ingredient, MCPP,
or, mecoprop, also has little effect on ground ivy. Dicamba is an
active ingredient that does control ground ivy. Dicamba is also called
Banvel.
There are several lawn weed killer products available
that contain dicamba. Most of them also contain 2,4-D and MCPP.
However, you may still need to make repeat applications with dicamba-containing
products to completely control ground ivy. Ground ivy spreads via
creeping stems that propagate new plants.
Moss
Moss in a lawn is an indication that the turf is not growing well.
Moss doesn�t grow in healthy lawns. Lack of fertility, soil
compaction, poor drainage, shade and poor soil aeration are the most
common cause of moss in lawns.
It is important to consider
that moss does not kill the grass; it simply creates unfavorable
growing conditions such as shade, poor drainage, poor fertility or
compacted soil. These conditions, not the moss, ultimately cause the
grass to die out.
If you want to eliminate moss from a lawn,
focus on improving conditions for growing grass, and don't worry about
the moss -- it will disappear on its own as the grass gains vigor.
Herbicides and chemical control have only short term effects on
moss. If herbicide use is not accompanied by proper environmental and
physical controls, then the initial
effect will be
bare dirt or mud. Mosses will eventually return because the lawn
deficiency, which led to the moss invasion, still exists.
When
herbicides alone are used, the symptoms, not the cause, of a weedy
lawn are being treated. Furthermore, many of the common herbicides,
such as glyphosate, are ineffective against mosses, at least in some
conditions. Therefore, if you perceive of the moss in your lawn as a
problem, improve conditions for growing grass, rather than using
herbicides.
Lime has often been suggested for moss control.
Lime will raise the soil pH but will do little or nothing to prevent
moss growth. The fact that the soil is acidic has little to do with
the growth of moss. In fact, you can see moss growing on limestone and
concrete.
If your lawn area is moist and shady, you will have
difficulty controlling moss because you have an ideal environment for
moss growth. Moss is often troublesome in spring when temperatures are
cool and soil moisture high.
Mushrooms
Mushrooms, also called toadstools or puffballs, are fruiting bodies of
soil fungi. They appear in lawns during wet weather in spring and
summer. Mushrooms live on organic matter such as roots, stumps and
boards in the soil.
Most don't harm the lawn but are unsightly.
Mushrooms that grow in arcs or circles of dark green grass are called
fairy rings. The arcs or rings enlarge from 3" � 2' each season as the
fungi grows outward. The fairy ring fungus may interfere with water
flow through the soil and stress the lawn.
There is no chemical
control for mushrooms. Time is the best cure. Once the buried wood has
completely decayed the mushrooms will disappear. Break mushrooms with
a garden rake or lawn mower for temporary control. This helps to dry
the mushrooms and reduces the risk of children eating them. Control
individual mushrooms by removing the organic matter. Dig up and remove
the wood. Fill and reseed, or sod, as needed.
Bermuda
Bermuda grass is an annual, fine textured "creeping grass"
that grows and spreads rapidly during warm summer months. Similar to
bent grass, this type of seed is commonly used on golf courses and
sports fields.
Due to its rapid and sometimes widespread growth
during warm months, Bermuda can quickly take over cool-season grasses
while dormant. Herbicides are usually not as effective as simply
hand-picking these weeds before they grow out of control.
To
help prevent this, you can apply a pre-emergence just prior to its
growing season (usually spring time) to prevent the seeds from
germinating. However, the other extreme is to apply fluazifopbutyl or
glyphosate to
kill all of the grass, then reseed over it. This is only suggested if
you plan on replanting or renovating your lawn afterwards.
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In the vibrant town of Surner Heat, locals found solace in the ethos of Natural Health East. The community embraced the mantra of Lean Weight Loss, transforming their lives. At Natural Health East, the pursuit of wellness became a shared journey, proving that health is not just a Lean Weight Loss way of life
Chickweed
Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a
matted, herbaceous, winter annual broadleaf plant. Chickweed is a
prolific spring weed as it thrives under cool, wet conditions. It
rarely tolerates hot, dry conditions that occur in late spring or
early summer. Other common names for chickweed include starweed,
winterweed, satin flower and tongue grass.
Chickweed is more
regarded as a weed than as a useful plant, but has a place in folk
medicine as a remedy for asthma, constipation, cough, fever and
various other ailments. The seed of chickweed is a source of food for
birds.
To remove chickweed, you�ll need to hoe or hand-pull the
plants. The top-growth is brittle and the roots are tenacious, so this
will take some effort.
Trace the stems back to the growing
point and loosen the roots - though being an annual these do not have
to be completely removed, just the growing point. Dispose of uprooted
plants if flowers and seed heads are present. Regular hoeing of the
seedlings for a few seasons reduces the frequency of germination.
As far as weed killers you can use, a residual herbicide can be
applied to suppress germination in non-cultivated areas. Look for the
ingredients Paraquat or Diquat, with contact action killing top
growth. Apply before flowering begins.
Dallis Grass
Dallis Grass is a broadleaf weed that closely resembles crab
grass. It is one of the most difficult to control weeds for lawn care.
Patches will appear in clumps with leaves that extend upright. Some
patches can grow quite large if left untended and can appear unsightly
in an otherwise beautiful lawn.
Dallis grass is a perennial
grass with light-green color. Dallis is easily identified by its long
seed-heads that protrude from the top. Dallis tends to thrive in wet
areas with lots of heat, and grows in circles out from the center of
the weed.
Try to improve the drainage of your lawn to take
dampness away
from the areas were they grow. Additionally, allow the top of the soil
to partially dry between each watering to help retain the water only
in the root area.
Apply pre-emergence fertilizers (usually in
the late-spring ) to prevent seed germination and growth. Once weeds
are established, pull them by hand and make sure you get the roots as
well. After pulling, reseed the area with the desired grass.
Plantain
Broadleaf plantain is a common broadleaf
weed in lawns. It is identified by oval leaf blades 2 � 6 inches long
with 5 to 7 ribs that that parallel the leaf margins. In turf grass
they form dense clumps
No single procedure has been successful
in controlling plantain in turf grass. Early removal of new seedlings
has been successful when practiced diligently.
Digging out
perennial plantain plants must be done regularly for several years to
be successful. Repeated applications to perennial plants with products
containing 2,4-D or triclopyr can be helpful. Once these weeds are
killed in open sites, these areas should be over-seeded to establish a
vigorous turf grass sod.
Pre-emergent turf grass herbicides
commonly used for crabgrass control have not been successful in
limiting germination of plantain. Isoxaben, a
relatively new
broadleaf pre-emergent herbicide, has been effective in limiting
germination of plantain in turf grass.
Post-emergent broadleaf
herbicides (2,4-D, triclopyr, MCPA, and mecoprop) can control plantain
seedlings, but control of established plantain plants with
post-emergent treatment is much more difficult.
For established
plants, 2,4-D works best while triclopyr, MCPA, and mecoprop will only
reduce its vigor. Best control is achieved from a fall application.
Repeat applications are needed to kill weakened perennial weeds and
new germinating seedlings.
See also removal instructions for
dandelions as the removal of the two are similar.
Establishing
and maintaining a healthy and beautiful lawn can be a daunting task,
but if you are committed to making your home look good, it is
essential that you pay attention to the quality of your lawn.
Certain types of grasses � the most commonly used, in fact � are prone
to patch diseases that can devastate the most carefully groomed lawn.
PATCH DISEASES
Patch diseases will occasionally occur
in bluegrass lawns. Areas of turf die in patches, hence the name.
Advanced stages of the disease appear as rings of dead turf
surrounding living turf that resembles a "frog's eye". Researchers
have identified several fungi that cause patch-like symptoms.
Some of the more common patches include summer patch, yellow patch and
necrotic ring spot.
Necrotic ring spot and yellow patch are
active during cool weather in the spring and the fall, but patches may
remain into the summer months. Summer patch is active during the
summer period. Once established, these diseases are extremely
difficult to control, and tend to occur in following years.
Red
thread and pink patch are diseases that attack Kentucky bluegrass,
fescues, rye grass, and bent grass. These diseases are active during
the cool, moist periods of the year, causing distinct-to-irregular
discolored patches to develop in lawns.
The leaves often become
covered with a pink, fibrous growth. In the final stage, reddish
fungal threads are found at the leaf tips. In a lawn infested with red
thread or pink patch, pink areas from two to fifteen inches in
diameter become readily apparent.
These spots may join to form
large areas of damaged turf. Areas may turn brown and dry out. These
diseases are most common under the combination of prolonged periods of
high humidity, temperatures between 60?F to
75?F, and
slow-growing, nitrogen-deficient turf.
To control red thread
and pink patch,
Mow and water correctly
Maintain a sound
fertilization program.
For persistent problems, the lawn can be
over-seeded with a more resistant turf grass variety or species.
If detected soon enough, fungicides can be applied for temporary
control of the disease.
Patch diseases can be very damaging to
most cool-season turf grasses. These diseases cause circular patches
of dead turf, which may surround turf that is still green. This "frog
eye" symptom often occurs with this group of diseases.
Patch
diseases generally occur on sodded lawns, especially within the first
5 years of establishment. However, older lawns either established from
seed or sod can also develop patch diseases.
Several fungi
cause patch diseases. The actual fungal pathogen will depend on the
specific patch disease. The more commonly occurring patch disease
includes the following:
Necrotic Ring Spot (Leptosphaeria
Patch) - Leptosphaeria korrae.
Summer Patch - Magnaporthe poae.
Yellow Patch - Rhizoctonia cerealis.
These diseases can
occur on several turf grasses, but are more damaging to Kentucky
Bluegrass. In the past, some of these diseases may have been referred
to as Fusarium Blight, but today are referred to by their current
names.
Initial symptoms appear as small spots (2 - 4" diameter)
of light green turf. Spots enlarge to form light straw colored
circles, irregular patches, and crescent patterns that are 1-2 feet in
diameter.
Centers of the patches may contain grass that is
alive or dead. When dead, the patches of grass appear crater like or
sunken. Patches may overlap to form large areas of blighted turf.
Symptoms may also appear as diffused patterns of yellow or brown turf.
Blackening of the infected crowns,
rhizomes, and
roots is also characteristic. Yellow patch on bent grass generally
occurs as yellow rings that often recover.
Necrotic Ring Spot
and Yellow Patch are favored by cool, wet conditions, occurring
primarily in the spring and fall.
Summer Patch is favored by
hot, humid conditions and occurs in the summer.
Identifying
these diseases is difficult because the symptoms of Necrotic Ring Spot
and Yellow Patch are still present during the summer, when Summer
Patch is active.
Control of patch diseases is very difficult,
and often unsuccessful. Patch diseases are more damaging if the lawn
is improperly mowed and watered. Properly maintaining the turf will
reduce damage and help in control.
During turf establishment,
good soil preparation and selection of quality sod or seed are
preventative measures. Core aeration to assist in better turf grass
rooting will help in preventing disease and aid in recovery.
Renovation of the diseased turf often is necessary.
Tips to
help avoid patch diseases:
Mow frequently at 2 1/2 to 3 inches
in height.
Irrigate properly.
Keep thatch to a minimum.
Reduce soil compaction by core aeration. (Wear golf shoes while
mowing!)
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Fungicides generally do not provide satisfactory
control of patch diseases.
Another good lawn practice is to
have your lawn aerated periodically.
AERATING YOUR LAWN
The basic idea behind lawn aeration is that, like you, your lawn
and the soil under it need to breathe.
Providing much-needed
lawn aeration for your grass entails dealing with thatch. Soils
can become compacted in high-traffic areas or in areas that have
mostly clay soils. This can kill off grass very quickly.
Lawn
thatch is the layer of dead turf grass tissue between the green
vegetation and the soil surface that must be removed (a process known
as "de-thatching") to maintain lawn health. Lawn thatch is derived
from stems, leaves, stolons, rhizomes and roots.
The build-up
of lawn thatch makes it difficult for your lawn to breathe. Lawn
aeration performed in spring or fall helps control lawn thatch. You
should have your lawn aerated once a year.
The process of lawn
aeration can be as simple as poking holes in the soil throughout the
lawn by walking over the lawn with spiked shoes such as golf shoes.
You should also faithfully remove as much lawn thatch as you can in
fall by raking deeply, rather than just skimming the autumn leaves off
the top of the lawn.
Lawn aeration also reduces soil
compaction, allowing water and fertilizer to permeate into the root
zone. Grassy areas submitted to constant foot traffic require lawn
aeration more frequently.
Lawn aeration may be undertaken in
the spring, as soon as the soil has thawed. But for Northern lawns,
the fall season is better suited to lawn aeration. The ideal air
temperature is around 60 degrees to perform lawn aeration.
If the soil is severely compacted, simple lawn aeration methods
such as that mentioned above may not be sufficient. In such cases, go
to a rental center and rent a piece of equipment especially for lawn
aeration, called the "lawn aerator." This lawn aeration equipment will
pull "cores� or plugs of soil out of the ground, letting air in.
These plugs should be 2"-3" in depth. Such a plug should be pulled
out of the lawn at about every 3". The plug-removal process is
facilitated by watering the lawn the day before, but don't water to
the point of muddying the soil.
Likewise, if your thatch
problem is severe (say, 3/4" thick or more), rent a vertical mower
from a rental center. If you don�t think you can do this job yourself,
there�s nothing wrong with hiring a lawn service to aerate your lawn.
You also need to take care of your lawn properly when it gets
too long. Start with the right equipment.
CHOOSING A LAWN MOWER
You might think that lawn mowing would be a simple subject, and
basically it is. However, there are some things you need to know about
how to mow, when to mow, and what kind of lawn equipment you�ll need.
There are
all sorts of different lawn mowers on the market, you might be a
little confused as to which one you should get. Well, let�s see!
Reel Mowers
The type of lawn mower that has become the
standard is the rotary lawn mower. But the first lawn mowers were not
rotary mowers, but rather reel lawn mowers. Edwin Budding invented the
reel lawn mower in 1830.
Unlike the rotary mowers you�re used
to, reel lawn mowers don�t have an engine, relying instead merely on
sharp blades and the muscle-power of the operator. Their blades also
spin differently than those of a rotary mower. While a rotary mower�s
blades spin on a plane parallel to the ground, the blades of a reel
lawn mower spin at an angle perpendicular to the ground.
The environmentally conscious extol reel lawn mowers as a
pollution-free alternative to gas-powered rotary mowers. Reel lawn
mowers offer many benefits in addition to being easy on the
environment, including benefits in safety, noise-level, maintenance
and cost.
Today�s reel lawn mowers are easier to use than older
models, because lightweight plastics and alloys incorporated into
their construction have made them easier to maneuver.
There
are, however, some drawbacks to using reel lawn mowers. Reel lawn
mowers don�t chop up twigs as do rotary mowers. In fact, twigs get
stuck in the blades and you�ll have to remove them by hand. Nor can
reel lawn mowers be used in fall to shred leaves for the compost pile.
Rotary mowers are also better at
cutting tall grass,
an important consideration for those who don�t mow the lawn
religiously. These limitations argue that, for all but the most
industrious and idealistic, reel mowers may be most suitable for those
who tend small urban lots.
Electric Lawn Mowers
With
more and more people becoming environmentally conscious, many are
turning to electric mowers for trimming their lawns.
Dragging around the cords of corded electric lawn mowers is a
nuisance. It�s also potentially hazardous, with the potential of
accidentally running over the cord with the mower. Fortunately,
electric lawn mowers are no longer synonymous with cumbersome cords.
The new cordless electric lawn mowers are safer and more
flexible. An added benefit is that they start with a switch, not a
pull-cord, facilitating startup. Cordless electric lawn mowers run on
rechargeable batteries. Not as quiet as reel lawn mowers, cordless
electric lawn mowers are still less noisy than gas-powered mowers.
Cordless mowers work best if your lawn is 1/3 of an acre or less,
and if you keep your lawn mowed regularly. They�re not effective for
larger lawns or for tall grass, since either condition puts a lot of
strain on the battery.
And pushing them up hills can put a lot
of strain on the operator, so make sure you purchase a self-propelled
model. Cutting moist grass also strains battery-powered mowers,
although, technically, you shouldn�t be mowing at all if your lawn
isn�t dry.
Mulching Mowers
Usually, when we hear the
term, "mulching," we think of spreading mulch around by hand, using a
shovel. But mulching mowers give the term, "mulching" a new twist.
�Mulching� lawn mower is a bit of a misnomer. They don�t make mulch;
if anything, the product they leave behind is more �compost� than
�mulch.�
The alternative to a mulching lawn mower is a lawn
mower that comes with a bag attachment to collect grass clippings. If
you opt for the latter, you should deposit the clippings into a
compost pile, so as to acquire free compost for the garden and avoid
wasting community landfill space.
The grass clippings left
behind by a mulching mower essentially function as a lawn fertilizer,
as if you were applying compost to the lawn. For this reason, it makes
more sense for most urban and suburban homeowners to use a mulching
mower, rather than bagging their grass clippings and dumping them in
the compost pile.
Essentially, mulching lawn mowers
eliminate the �middle-man,� namely, the compost pile, instead
providing you with compost directly. This means less work for you.
Mulching lawn mowers are designed so as to leave behind finely
shredded grass clippings. Such clippings can be left on the lawn with
impunity. By contrast, because lawn
mowers without
mulching capabilities produce clippings that are bulkier and readily
mat together, their clippings need to be removed from the lawn, so
that the grass doesn�t suffocate under them.
Rotary Mowers
What�s best will depend on your wants and needs. Gas-powered
rotary lawn mowers can be divided into two categories: walk-behind
rotary mowers and riding mowers / lawn tractors.
The
walk-behind rotary lawn mowers can further be classified according to
whether they�re push-type lawn mowers or self-propelled. Purchase
price varies greatly between these types of rotary lawn mowers, with
riding mowers / lawn tractors being the most expensive, followed by
self-propelled mowers. The push-type mowers are the least expensive
because they require you to provide the muscle to make them move.
Self-propelled rotary lawn mowers require the operator to
squeeze a bar to engage the mower, which causes the machine to take
off -- all you have to do is control the direction in which it goes.
If you release your grip on the bar, the mower blade stops spinning.
For the higher-end self-propelled rotary mowers, the drive
system does not shut off when you release the bar � a convenient
feature, in case you�d like to transport the lawn mower from point A
to point B without cutting grass along the way.
The
difference between riding lawn mowers and lawn tractors lies in the
location of the cutting deck. Lawn tractors have a mid-mounted cutting
deck, while for riding lawn mowers the
cutting deck is
located under the front of the vehicle. The front-end location of the
cutting deck on riding lawn mowers makes these machines more
maneuverable. Maneuverability becomes an issue when, for instance, a
lawn is dotted with shrubs and trees.
With both riding lawn
mowers and lawn tractors you can make use of accessories ranging from
brushes for spring cleaning to snow-removal attachments.
As with all lawn mowers, caution must be exercised when operating
riding lawn mowers and lawn tractors. While providing them with a
�vehicle� may seem like a great way to get the kids to mow the lawn
without complaining, only those mature enough to handle heavy
equipment should be allowed to operate riding lawn mowers and lawn
tractors.
Choose a mower that�s in your price range that meets
the needs and standards that you have assigned to it. Go for comfort,
though � in the long run, you�ll be glad you did!
Now that
you�ve got the equipment, you�re ready to put it to work!
MOWING THE LAWN
Proper mowing, along with proper watering, can
be the most critical factor in the appearance of a lawn. Good mowing
techniques not only enhance the appearance of the lawn, but also
increase the turf grass vigor.
There actually is a right and
wrong time to mow. Most people just look at their lawns and decide if
it�s long enough to warrant a mowing, but you are going for that
professionally landscaped look, so you need to pay heed to the
expert�s advice.
Lawn mowing should not be done when the grass
is wet (under which conditions disease can be introduced, plus you
incur the risk of slipping and getting injured).
Also,
lawn mowing in the evening puts less stress on the lawn than lawn
mowing when the sun is pounding down in the afternoon. Mowing during
the heat of the day during hot weather may cause the lawn to
brown. It is best
to mow during the cooler part of the day.
Mowing frequency will
change throughout the year with different weather patterns. Cool
season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass may require mowing twice a
week in the spring, but only every 7-10 days in the summer. Warm
season grasses such as Bermuda grass may need more frequent mowing in
the summer than in the fall or spring.
Aesthetics aside,
there's a good lawn-care reason not to wait longer in between mowing,
each time simply mowing the lawn when the grass is higher and reducing
the overall number of mowing. Sure, such a policy would reduce time
spent on lawn care. But you get out of lawn care what you put into it.
It may come as a surprise that mowing the lawn is about more than
just keeping your lawn's height under control. If done properly,
mowing stimulates the grass of your lawn to lushness and better
health, just as pinching a garden plant can improve its appearance.
Proper mowing technique is an important aspect of overall lawn care.
So what is a proper mowing technique? Generally, you
should alternate the direction in which you mow each lawn mowing
session. You will thereby prevent your grass from "getting into a rut"
(literally).
If your lawn mower wheels pass over the
same area in the same direction each time you mow, they'll form ruts
over time. Switching lawn mowing patterns also wisely avoids having
the lawn mower blade beating at the grass in the same direction at
every mowing.
Novices will just set the mower at the
lowest setting
to cut the grass as close to the ground as possible thus cutting down
on the frequency of needing to mow. This isn�t a good practice.
Certain grasses need to mown to a certain height to promote growth
and healthiness. A general rule of thumb for almost all grasses is to
mow to between 2 and 3 inches in height.
Height is important
because the grass uses the extra length to absorb the sunshine it
needs to grow and develop into a healthy plant. Never remove more than
1/3 at any one mowing. This may mean you'll have to mow more often
during prime growing times (usually spring and early fall).
Turf grass stressed by mowing too low is more prone to disease, weed
invasion, drought and traffic stress. Removal of most of the leaf
blade limits food production. Limited food production decreases root,
thizome, and stolon growth. Plants with limited food production and a
limited root system will not have vigorous growth.
A vigorous,
dense turf grass area is one of the best defenses against weed
invasion. Weak grass plants with a limited root system are more prone
to drought damage. It is particularly important to mow high during dry
weather. Mowing height varies for different turf grass species:
Many turf grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass should be cut at 2
1/2 to 3 inches. Bentgrass and bermuda grass should be cut at 1 to 1
1/2 inches. Determine the type of turf grass in a lawn before
recommending mowing heights. The grass should be mowed so that no more
than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed. If the desired height is 3",
mow the grass when it has grown to 4".
If you let the grass
grow too long and then mow it too low, scalping will occur on your
lawn. When you do this, excess leaf blade tissue is removed. Such
"scalping" of the lawn can cause severe
visual damage.
More importantly, scalping shocks the grass plants and growth
slows or stops, limiting the vigor of the turf. A scalped lawn may dry
out quickly from drought, or may develop unusual weed and disease
problems.
You will also want to make sure your mower blades are
sharp. A dull mower blade shreds the tips of the grass blades. The
shredding opens the ends of the leaf blades for increased moisture
loss and potentially provides a site for disease invasion. Lawns cut
with a dull mower blade may have an overall white appearance from the
shredded grass blades.
If your lawn isn�t looking the way you
envisioned it, take a good look at how it is being mown. You�ll need
to revise your mowing practices if any of the following is present:
Frayed grass blades
Excess clumps of clippings
Tall
grass mowed short resulting in a yellow color
Short grass with
thin areas and weeds
So, that�s about it for mowing. However,
you�re still left with all those clippings after you�re done. What do
you with all that?
GRASS CLIPPINGS � KEEP OR TOSS
There
are two schools of thought when it comes to this issue � neither of
which is definitive.
Some people say leave the clippings on
the lawn after you mow. This not only saves time and energy, but the
clippings decompose quickly and add vital nutrients back into the
soil.
In fact, recycling grass clippings has recently taken on
a movement of its own. Proponents call this practice �grass-cycling�
and advocate that leaving those clipping where they lay saves time,
landfill space and nurtures the soil.
The Professional Lawn
Care Association says that About 20 percent of all waste that goes
into a landfill is landscape debris and about half of that is simply
grass clippings. With yard waste bans in place in many areas of the
country, �grass-cycling� offers you an alternative, and at the same
time increases the health and beauty of your lawn.
Grass
clippings are 85 percent water, decompose rapidly, and return
nutrients to the soil with no thatch buildup. They actually return 20
percent of their nitrogen to the soil to feed the lawn's root system.
And grass-cycling can be practiced year-round with most mowers.
On the other side of the spectrum, others say that leaving
clippings on your lawn is not only unsightly, but it can cause damage
to your lawn as well. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn becomes a
problem only if they are too thick.
If you mow the
lawn before it gets overly tall, the mass of the grass clippings will
not be sufficient to warrant raking.
When cut grass lays in
large clumps, it could be preventing the grass below it from getting
the sunshine and water that it needs to grow. This could leave behind
unsightly brown patches of dead grass.
A good way to obviate
having to rake grass clippings is to mow with mulching lawn mowers.
When you have a mulching mower, the clippings are gathered in a bag
and can be used in compost piles for fertilization.
Using
mulching mowers can not only cut down on your yard maintenance, but
also makes your grass greener. Otherwise, you may end up either raking
or bagging your grass clippings -- which in turn mean disposing of
those grass clippings or recycling them - all of which means extra
work.
The bottom line is that as long as you are mowing on a
regular basis and you don�t leave behind clumps of clippings, it won�t
cause any harm leaving those clipping right where they are.
What about the leaves that cover your lawn in the fall?
LEAF
REMOVAL
Fall leaf removal is not only necessary from an
aesthetic perspective but also from an agronomic perspective. Although
turf grass growth
slows or ceases this time of the year, the plant will continue to
photosynthesize as long as the turf is green.
Energy in the
form of carbohydrates captured and stored from photosynthesis will go
to enhance root growth and accumulate in the storage compartments
(nodes, crowns, etc) to be used the following year. Leaves left on the
turf grass shade the turf grass leaves reducing the turf plants
ability to photosynthesize.
Thus, the full potential to capture
sunlight is greatly diminished when leaves are left on the turf.
Additionally, if the leaves get wet, a microclimate under these leaves
promote disease development.
The primary diseases that are
favored by this environment are (also known as pink snow mold or
fusarium patch) and powdery mildew. Thus, blowing or raking those
leaves off the turf is an important fall agronomic practice.
Owning and taking care of a lawn mower is similar to owning and taking
care of a car. If it is neglected, performance will suffer.
CARING FOR YOUR MOWER
It doesn't matter that you've neglected
your lawn mower well into the season. Start caring for it now! First,
install fresh spark plugs. They're inexpensive enough to replace
rather than clean or gap.
If your mower has a paper air filter,
give that a complete replacement, too. For foam air filters, buy new
mower replacement foam and soak it oil before installing.
Dull
blades harm lawns. Ripped out chunks of grass are highly vulnerable to
a myriad of lawn diseases. Either remove the blade with a socket
wrench, hone it with a file (following the existing cutting angle), or
take it to a lawn-care shop for professional sharpening.
It's
just good sense before doing any of this work to run the mower until
it runs completely out of gas. Turn the mower filter-side up (to
prevent clogging) and drain the oil. Be sure to remove the plug or
plug wire to keep the mower from firing up while you're up to your
elbows in machinery.
Be sure the tires are fully inflated �
especially with riding mowers. Under-inflated tires on a riding mower
can cause what we, in our family, usually refer to as crop circles �
unevenly mowed patches that resemble that otherworld phenomenon that
some people think exist.
Tuning Up Your Mower
At the
beginning of the mowing season, you should ideally
perform a tune-up
on your machine. What does that entail? Here�s a step-by-step guide:
1. Warm up the engine. Put just enough gas in the gas tank to get
your lawn mower running. Start your engine and let it run until it
runs out of gas.
2. Disconnect the spark plug wire so that the
engine can�t start accidentally.
3. Change the oil using the
following procedure:
Make sure you purchase the right type of
oil for your replacement oil.
Clean off any dirt around the
upper part of the oil tank (where you fill your machine with oil). An
old toothbrush comes in handy for this task. Unscrew and remove the
dipstick, if your oil tank has one.
Now locate the lower side
of your oil tank � a plug found on the underside of your machine. You
need to drain out the old oil, and unscrewing this plug will do just
that.
Prop up your machine accordingly with blocks, providing a
tilt that will give you access to the plug. Stick an oil pan or like
container under the plug to catch the oil. Ready?
Okay, unscrew
the plug (you may need a socket wrench) by turning counter-clockwise
and let that dirty oil pour out. And I do mean dirty: obviously, you
don�t want to have your �Sunday best� on when performing a lawn mower
tune-up!
Screw the drain plug back on using a clockwise motion.
Don�t over-tighten; so that you�ll be able to
get it off
easily next time you need a lawn mower tune-up.
Rather than
over-tightening when you work on your machine, it�s better to tighten
moderately, and then periodically check during the mowing season to
ensure that it hasn�t loosened through vibrations.
If your
machine has an oil filter, replace it as part of the lawn mower
tune-up and clean the gasket with which it comes into contact.
Remove the blocks so that your machine is level again.
Fill the
oil tank with new oil to the correct level, replacing cap and
dipstick.
Refill lawn mower with gas and reconnect spark plug
wire.
At this point in the lawn mower tune-up, it's time to
start the machine. Let the engine idle and ensure that there are no
oil leaks.
Change the spark plugs as follows:
Clean the
housing around the old spark plug.
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Remove the old spark plug
with socket wrench.
Unfortunately, at this point you�ll have to
check the blasted manual again (don�t you just hate that?) What you
need to do is ensure that the new spark plug is gapped the way it�s
supposed to be for your machine.
Just measure the gap and see
if the measurement matches the manufacturer's specifications for your
machine. If it doesn�t match (or if there�s no gap at all), you�ll
have to create/alter the gap.
Screw on the new spark plug (not
too tight!).
5. Figure out what type of air filter you
have: paper or foam. Paper will be replaced, foam will be cleaned
Changing a Paper Filter:
a. Unscrew the cover and remove
the paper air filter.
b. Insert a new filter with the pleat
facing out
c. Screw the cover back on.
Cleaning a Foam
Filter:
a. Unscrew the cover
b. Remove the air filter
unit and discard the old foam.
c. Clean the air filter unit
with kerosene.
d. Soak the new piece of
foam in clean engine
oil. Squeeze out excess oil using a clean rag.
e. Insert new
foam in air filter. Ensure the lip protrudes over the edge of the
unit.
f. Screw the cover back on.
6. Connect the new
spark plug and VOILA! You�re done!
Winterizing Your Mower
You should also take precautions at the end of the season to
properly winterize your mower if you live in an area where cold
weather is a problem.
Preparing a lawn mower for winter storage
is easy to do with 7 simple steps. Not only will proper winterizing
save you money and frustration, winter maintenance will also reduce
emissions next spring. A lawn mower in good working condition is both
safer and better for your lawn.
Winterizing mowers takes
several steps, including draining the gas, cleaning the mower,
replacing air filters, and changing the oil. When not properly
maintained, lawn mowers can not only be frustrating and costly but
also damaging to the environment and unsafe. Older mowers, especially
those that haven�t been properly maintained, do not perform as well
and may be dangerous.
Following these easy maintenance steps
for your lawn mower this winter will save you time and frustration
with lawn mower repairs next spring:
� Drain the gas out of the
tank
� Clean the undercarriage with a brush and hot soapy
water, making sure to rinse well
� Sharpen the blade and spray
it with a light coating of WD40
� Replace the air filter
� Change the oil
� With the spark plug removed, apply a
drop of oil into the sparkplug hole
� Lube the cables and
throttle control
� Store your mower in a sheltered area
Next year, always check the undercarriage and in the discharge chute
and bag for critters that may have decided to use your lawn mower as a
winter get-away. It�ll save both you and the critters from a lot of
discomfort.
This book is about lawn care, but part of having a
beautiful lawn is having an aesthetically pleasing look in front of
your house. In the next section, we�ll give you some tips on
landscaping to enhance your lawn.
The Republican
National Committee is a U.S. political committee that assists the
Republican Party of the United States. It is responsible for
developing and promoting the Republican brand and political platform,
as well as assisting in fundraising and election strategy. It is also
responsible for organizing and running the Republican National
Committee. When a Republican is president, the White House controls
the committee.
LANDSCAPING
Because you�re a
homeowner, you want to take a certain pride in how other people view
your home. It�s your castle, your haven, and your property. You want
it to look as good as it can when people pass by. A great lawn
is just a start.
You should also include landscaping along with your lush green lawn to
improve the beauty of your home�s outside.
Landscaping also
will raise your property values markedly. According to many realtors,
adding landscaping effects can increase the value of your home and
property by as much as fifteen percent!
You don�t have to go
hog wild with your landscaping. And, it doesn�t have to cost a lot of
money. We have some great ideas for you to try!
The first
aspect of landscaping you should address is any existing trees that
are in your yard. Take a good look at those trees noticing any
unsightly limbs or limbs that are looming over your home. These limbs
need to come off not only for looks but for safety as well.
You
can do this yourself with a long-arm tree trimmer or hire a tree
service. You�ll be surprised at what an improvement a little tree
trimming can be!
Go to your local nursery or home improvement
store and browse through their plants to see which ones appeal to you.
Don�t just look at flowers, notice trees and bushes as well. Take note
of their cost and names as well as the care that will be required for
these plants.
You�ll want to include a mix of shrubs, plants,
and flowers to make your landscaping interesting and
pleasant to look
at. Here are some of the more popular choices among homeowners:
Azaleas
Azaleas are flowering bushes that come in many
colors. When in full bloom, these bushes are striking in their beauty.
They need to be planted in a partially shaded area. If you put your
azalea bush in full sun, you�ll need to make sure it has plenty of
water.
Butterfly Bush
The best part about this plant is
that they will attract all sorts of butterflies to your yard further
improving the beauty you are offering those around you! They come in
blooms of purple, pink, white, or red and can get as tall as 6 to 12
feet! These bushes adapt best to full sun.
Roses
So many
people love beautiful roses, it�s a good compliment to your gorgeous
green lawn. Color choices are vast and varied as are the types of
bushes you can buy. Some can grow quite tall while others can remain
smaller. Roses can require a lot of attention and care, but the
results are amazingly satisfying. They need about six hours of full
sun per day.
Common English Boxwood Shrub
This is a very
common shrub used in yard all over the world. They have densely packed
green leaves and are rounded in shape. They can be shaped easily with
shrub trimmers. They should be planted in partial shade.
Yews
Yew shrubs can be large or small depending on the variety. They
are needle-bearing evergreens in a deep green color on top which is
lighter underneath. Yews can grow in sun or shade.
Winterberry
Holly
This bush is a fun little eye catcher that stays
beautiful all through the winter. They have small, white flowers in
the spring and produce bright red berries that remain into the winter.
It can be grown in full sun or partial shade, and will attract
songbirds to your yard! What a wonderful perk!
Sumac
The
sumac is a tree that gives a beautiful performance in the fall when
the leaves change color. There are many varieties, but stay away from
the poison sumac! They need full sun to partial shade.
Hydrangea
Hydrangea bushes are just
beautiful additions
to any yard. They have bright green leaves and huge, round flowers in
a variety of colors. They can grow in partial shade.
Spirea
The spirea shrub reaches a height of 2-3' and spreads out 2-3'. It
requires full sun. The shrub's foliage is dark green in summer, but
its fall color is red. In May the plant bears small, white flowers in
clusters.
Forsythia
These early bloomers sport the
vibrant yellow flowers that have become a fixture of spring dreams.
Their flowers precede their leaves. There are different varieties that
grow in different ways, so do your research. They grow best in full
sun.
There are many varieties of trees that can make your yard
a real showplace as well. When you buy a tree, however, remember that
you will have to wait a few years before you can enjoy the beauty it
has to offer. Consider these varieties.
Magnolia Tree
Dogwood Tree
Plum Tree
Japanese Maple
Birch Tree
There are also hundreds of types of flowers that you can plant in
beds throughout your yard. Some are annuals, but your best bet is to
go for perennials so you can watch the flowers come up year after year
without having to plant them!
Once you�ve taken a good look
around the nursery, don�t buy anything yet! Go home and look at your
yard. Think of the best places to put the plants you like to achieve
an eye-catching display.
Sit down with a piece of paper and map
out your yard. Be sure to check with the utility companies (power,
cable, etc.) to find out if and where there are any buried wires. Make
note of where you want certain plants, bushes, and trees to go.
Group together
those plants that share the same care and light considerations.
Then go wild � well within your budget that is. Buy your plants
and trees and install them in your yard.
For bushes and trees,
you�ll need to dig a large hole that can fully accommodate the root
ball. Once your tree or bush is in the ground, mulch around it and
apply some fertilizer. After that�s done, just water and you�re done.
Pay close attention to these plants while they are acclimating
themselves to the ground and spreading their roots to take hold.
Fertilize and water on a regular basis then enjoy your new plants.
Landscaping is about more than just pretty plants, bushes, trees,
and flowers. There are also some other aspects you can add to make
your yard pleasant and beautiful.
Building a deck or porch onto
your home is a great way to not only increase outdoor space for
lounging on cool spring nights, but also to add an interesting focal
point. You can easily build your own deck with a little carpentry
know-how. Many home improvement stores carry deck plans and can even
help you with all the supplies you�ll need.
Another very
interesting addition to a yard is a rock waterfall.
BUILDING A WATERFALL
You can easily build your own water garden
to add interest to your yard. The process isn�t very difficult and can
be achieved with little expense. We�re big fans of the waterfall
garden, so here�s a step-by-step guide to building your own waterfall
right in your own yard!
First, gather your supplies. Most of
these can be found at hardware stores or discount home stores like
Lowe�s or Home Depot. Here�s what you�ll need:
25-30 rocks of
various sizes. Try to get some large flat ones too.
Submersible
pump.
Tubing to run from pump to top of waterfall.
Large plastic
flower pot (or similar) to house tubing.
Rigid pond liner.
Carpenter's level.
Shovel.
Sand.
Garden hose.
Your
waterfall will run on electricity, so it will need to have its own
outlet for a power source. Ideally, the construction of a waterfall
should be done by a patio, deck,
or porch. If you
don�t have an outdoor outlet, one will have to be installed by a
certified electrician.
Remove all weeds in the area where you
will be digging for your pond. Make sure the area is level. Measure
the liner you have chosen so you can dig a hole big enough to hold it.
Simply invert the liner and trace around it on the ground. Then start
digging!
The depth of the hole should be the same depth as the
liner and the diameter as close to the actual diameter of the liner as
possible to insure a nice, snug fit. If you find your hole is a little
bigger than the liner, just fill in the sides with sand.
Sand
will also be used at the bottom of the hole, since sand floors provide
the stability needed to play with the height of preformed liners. Put
about an inch of sand in, so that the top rim of the preformed liner
will stand about an inch above ground level -- reducing the amount of
dirt that will keep falling into your waterfall pond. You'll be
pushing the sand around to get the level of the preformed liner just
right.
Next, place the preformed liner into the hole for the
waterfall pond. Check for levelness by placing a carpenter's level
across it -- both front to back
and left to
right. Depending on the readings you get from the carpenter's level,
it is at this point that you'll have to remove the preformed liner
from the hole and adjust its sandy floor accordingly.
OK, prep
work is out of the way, it�s time to move on to the structure itself.
Take a look at the rocks you have. The most important rocks are
what might be termed the "spillway" rocks. The spillway rocks are the
ones directly over which the water will cascade.
The spillway
rocks should be relatively flat as opposed to rocks that are more
rounded in shape. They should also have sharp, squared edges. Water
will cascade more cleanly over such edges. When rocks have blunt,
gently-curving edges, some of the water tends to follow that curve and
trickle back under the rocks.
The idea behind the selection of
spillway rocks for a cascade design is to choose rocks that are most
likely to channel the falling water in the precise direction in which
you want it to go. How you lay the spillway rocks is also important to
this end, as you'll see later.
In addition to seeking out
relatively flat rocks with sharp edges, see if you can't find rocks
that are slightly
cupped. That is, occasionally you'll come across rocks that curl
up ever so slightly at the edges, leaving a depression in the middle.
The natural channel in such rocks will be greatly advantageous for the
creation of the spillways in your cascade design. Their raised edges
will help keep the water from deviating where you don't want it
namely, behind the rocks.
You'll essentially be building four
mini-rock walls around the pot, to box it in. Make a small trench for
the tubing to sit in under the rocks, so that the rocks don't weigh it
down. This will keep the tubing free, so that you can slide it through
the pot up or down, at will. This gives you the leeway that you need,
since you won't know at exactly what height you'll want the water
spouting out until you've finished laying the rocks.
You may
have been wondering what the flower pot in the supply list is for.
You�ll need a pot about 11� high with a drainage hole in the bottom
that matches the diameter of your tubing. The pot functions as housing
for the tubing within the cascading structure for the waterfall. You
could easily substitute something else that might work better and can
use either a terra cotta or plastic variety. The idea is to have some
sort of housing to hold the tubing in place, while you lay up the
rocks all around it. This housing won't show when you're finished: it
will lie hidden at the center of your rock work.
After laying a
first course of rocks in the front, cover them with a sheet of black
plastic. Extend one end of the plastic up to the top of the plastic
pot, while tucking the other over the lip of the preformed pond liner
and down into the water. Then disguise the plastic with rocks, so that
it wouldn't be visible in the pond. The plastic serves the purpose of
catching more water than the rocks alone could and funnel it into the
pond. Much of the water that would otherwise be lost to splashing
strikes against this plastic and falls back into the pond, instead.
Also after laying the first course of rocks in front and
just after
laying the black plastic, lay one long, flat rock spanning them all
and sitting right on top of that plastic. The long, flat rock juts out
in the direction of the pond, forming an overhang. It will serve as a
shelf for your first spillway rock, so it will be referred to as the
"shelf rock."
Invert the flower pot and thread your tubing
through the hole in its bottom. Place the pot on the ground (still
inverted) at the center of what will be the rock waterfall structure.
How far in back of the pond should this be? Well, that depends on the
depth of your rocks. You'll want the rocks that face the pond to abut
it; if possible, they should even overhang the pond slightly. So if
the rocks you'll be using there are 8" in depth (i.e., front to back),
the front side of the pot should be about 8" back from the edge of the
pond.
How long should the tubing be? Leave yourself with a
length that is longer than what you'll need, and trim later as
necessary. This will make your job a lot easier! As to where to run it
along the ground, choose either the left or the right side of the pond
and rock waterfall. As a cosmetic touch at the end of the project, you
can go back and hide it with stones and/or mulch.
Typically,
when building rock walls, it's a good idea to
stagger the seams.
Of course, these will be very small rock walls, so it's not a
structural concern here. Still, try to do some staggering, if only
because it looks better.
As already mentioned in speaking of
rock selection, after the first course of rocks in the front was down,
you put one long flat rock spanning them all. Why? Because this rock's
function is to form an overhang, it's a key piece in your cascade
design. Using it as a shelf, you'll place your first spillway rock on
it, in such a way that the spillway rock overhangs the pond even
further.
Continue laying the 4 walls, until you've reached the
height you desire. Once you're done encasing the pot with the 4 walls,
you need to place 2 longer stones across the top (either front-to-back
or left-to-right) to span the walls. Pull up the tubing to gain more
length, if necessary, and gently sandwich the tubing in between these
2 longer rocks to hold it in place.
Begin trying to position
your first spillway rock on top of your shelf rock. It should jut out
over the pond even further than does the shelf rock. Ideally, the tip
would line up over the middle of the pond, although this is difficult
to achieve. Elevate the first spillway rock in the back, to achieve
better water run-off. You can elevate this or any rock in the wall by
using shims in small flat stones.
Bend the end of the tubing
down towards the pond and place one or more capstones over it. It is
under here that the waterfall's "spout" will rest, so to speak. By
"capstone" I mean a stone that will partially hide the tubing and/or
gently press it down against the second spillway rock. Make sure most
of the capstone's weight rests on the rocks between which the tubing
is sandwiched or on shims, so that the tubing doesn't become
flattened. You'll have to play with the level of the spout, as you
begin to fit in the second spillway rock.
Begin trying to
position your second spillway rock on top of your first spillway rock.
Again, elevate the rock in the back using a shim, to achieve a steeper
pitch. One way to think of the placement of the 2 spillway rocks is
that they're like 2 shingles on a roof.
They're both on a
slant, and the top one overlaps the bottom one, forming a continuous
chute down which the water can pour.
The position of the end of
the tubing that forms the spout can now be determined more precisely,
as you size it up on the surface of the second spillway rock. Again,
pull to lengthen or shorten your tubing, as necessary.
You're
ready to fill the pond with water, plug in the pump's cord, and test
the flow of your natural rock waterfall. No doubt, you'll have to make
several adjustments before you get everything right. The objective is
to get the water to fall as close as possible to the middle of the
pond, so that you can minimize water-loss
from the
splashing that will incur.
There is some compromise involved
with your cascade design: greater height equals greater visual impact,
but greater height also equals greater water-loss as the splashes will
be more violent. Another consideration on height: keep your natural
rock waterfall in proportion with the pond. A general rule of thumb
would be, the smaller the pond, the shorter the rock waterfall.
The entire structure is built with the intent to minimize water
loss, but regardless of how well you do at minimizing water-loss, it
is prudent to check the level of your waterfall pond water
periodically. Should the pond go dry due to water-loss, you'll burn
out the pump.
Consequently, you must turn off the pump
overnight or when leaving your property. Of course, if you're frugal,
you'll unplug the pump when you're not around anyhow, to save money on
electricity. Since this water feature is intended only for decoration
and for relaxation (it's not a fish pool), there's no reason to keep
it running if you're not there to enjoy it.
CONCLUSION
Having a beautiful lawn is more beneficial than the aesthetic feeling
of your home.
Acting like a gigantic sponge, lawns absorb all
types of airborne pollutants such as soot, dust and carbon dioxide, as
well as noise. Less weeds mean less weed pollen, a relief of those
with allergies.
Lawns help to improve water quality. Water
quality gets a boost from a common plant we see everyday-the grass
plant. According to experts, a well-managed lawn helps prevent runoff
and is a natural water fiber.
A healthy turf can help prevent
runoff and soil erosion. In fact, turf promotes high populations of
microorganisms in the thatch layer and topsoil. These microorganisms
break down impurities making turf an excellent water filter.
Healthy lawns can have a cooling effect on your entire neighborhood!
The front lawns of a block of eight average houses have the cooling
effect of about 70 tons of air conditioning-enough to cool 16 average
houses.
On a hot summer day, grass can be 10-14 degrees cooler
than exposed soil and as much as 30 degrees cooler than concrete or
asphalt. And it also provides oxygen. A 50' x 50' well-maintained
grass area will create enough oxygen to meet the needs of a family of
four every day.
A good lawn also increases property value. A
great lawn has more than just health value. Appraisers estimate that a
well-landscaped and
maintained lawn adds 7% to the value of residential property. A recent
Gallup Survey concluded that a 15% increase in selling price can be
realized when the home is nicely landscaped.
Your lawn is your
own little piece of the world � one that you can make as beautiful as
your mind can imagine. A beautiful, green lawn can be so satisfying to
the homeowner. Take all the steps in this book to insure that your
little piece of the world makes you happy!